Grady Dickens wrote:
Brian,
I know this is a bit of a diversion from you on going debate with Tapio here, but I pulled this from that "Let's Talk Golf Machine Thread" in ABS I mentioned to you. This is a post from John. I am curious how you would interpret it in its totality, and, in particular, the last part about working the ball. Is that inconsistent with what you are teaching or compatible?
In my swing you can see that from B-9 to B-10 there is a lot of body moment in the pivot, but my hands stay a constant distance from my belt buckle, the face of the club does not roll, but stays at right angles to my rotating shoulders, so the release or perceived “squaring of the clubface happens through the rotation of the body and not an independent rotation of the hands (in regard to the body)
as you would see in a swinging approach.
The muscular element here is that the hands WANT TO move away from the body here
if you look again at B-9 to B-10. It takes some strength to keep the upper arms close to the body, and the hands in close keeping the shaft on plane. The left wrist also wants to fully uncock, so I am resisting that as well. The thing that some of the pure TGM swingers don’t quite understand is that this effort, or fighting the natural forces that would be trying to separate the arms and hands from the body, is actually putting pressure on my pressure points, and this pressure is FEEL… and this feel can be monitored to help you hit good golf shots.
Since I am on this topic, I’ll shed a bit of extra insight here too..
When I want to draw the ball, I will make an extra effort to hold the wrist cocked through and past impact, and the harder I hold this, the more the ball will tend to slightly draw… and if I cut the hands left, but allow the wrist to uncock this will create a fade. So when I work the ball, it is not a rotating of the wrist action, or moving my aiming point around in the swings arc, but a conscious and deliberate pulling up on #2 or a letting it go (uncock) that will produce slight changes in the flight path, (fade or draw) This is real advanced ball striking technique, and I know most people will never experience this sensation, but I can tell you that from my experience with a lot of different ways of working the ball left or right, this is by far and away the best way to do it. Basically a huge effort in the hands and body creates a very small effect on the ball.
You wouldn’t want the opposite, small change in the body and hands creates huge changes in the ball fight… but that is how most golfers experience the game..
I like to feel like my worst swings still hit relatively straight shots.
IMO, those methods are just tweaking of clubhead path at impact. The fade swing is a fade because the early release of PA2 makes the clubhead get nearer the targetline earlier, hence the left path, more out to in. The draw swing makes the clubhead farther from targetline, hence more right clubhead path, more in to out. But there will be totally different effects on clubhead speed and rate of clubface closure that you would have to deal with. Distance control will be a problem.
Why not just adopt a draw swing for ALL shots? Draw swing mechanics. Draw swing for a draw. Draw swing for a fade. You switch from draw to straight, straight to fade by just tweaking the timing of your hips vis-a-vis the arms/shoulders/upper body. Wouldn't that be simpler?
So, the LEAST ahead you can make your hips turn, you should be hitting the biggest draw you prefer. The MOST ahead you an make your hips turn should result to your biggest fade. Ain't that simpler?
All you've got to do is adopt the left arm-shaft angle that will ensure you will not get a draw bigger than your preferred biggest draw.
I'm advocating that draw swing method of John, but I'd like to really SUPINATE it hard and fast. No hold-off at all. You prevent release of PA2/uncock BY (1) keeping a flat left wrist, (3) keeping a tightly clenched fist, and (3) rotating that left flat clenched fist fast and hard, aka supination. You can even add the 3 right hands at delivery phase. Makes the engine stronger.